Cutting order

Rolls of fabric go in — the same ones the Rolls screen weighed — and pieces per grid variant come out. The system issues the rolls from stock, receives the pieces by SKU and calculates the yield. Without this, fabric yield lives in a spreadsheet nobody checks.

The FABRIC is what's consumed (the knit on the roll). The STYLE is the finished product that has the grid — the T-shirt, the trousers. Pieces are counted in the variants OF THE STYLE; a variant that doesn't belong to it is refused, because the trail would point to the wrong SKU.

Weight consumed is the sum of the rolls that went in. Weight used is what became pieces. The percentage between the two is the marker yield — and it's by comparing spreads that the garment maker finds out which marker wastes least.

In the bundles panel, under Broken needle and metal detector: choose the bundle and the operation, enter the machine and tick Parts recovered if every piece of the needle was found. Without the parts, the bundle goes into quarantine: sewing cannot report it until the bundle passes the detector (Detector: passed button on the row). Then record the replacement: with the old needle returned, or without it — without the old one, the bundle also goes into quarantine.

Below the Cutting order, choose a finished cut and tap "Build bundles": the pieces of each size and color become packs of up to 12 (cutting parameter), with plies and roll. Download the labels as PDF and attach them to the packs. The sewer scans the QR on the phone and clocks the operation; the "Work in progress" block updates by itself every 30 seconds and stops when every bundle is done.

Below the broken needle list, enter how many days back the report covers (default 90) and, if the audit is by a retailer, choose it: the PDF comes out in their language and the shipment detector passes are only those of their orders (needles and bundles are for the whole factory). Click Policy report as PDF.

Stating how many pieces each variant yielded is mandatory. Recording "300 pieces came out" without saying which size and color produces a number useless for replenishing, selling or costing — and stock per SKU would start lying at the first query.

Executing isn't just recording: the selected rolls leave stock and the pieces come in by variant, all in one transaction. If any guard refuses — roll already issued, variant of another item, zero quantity —, nothing is saved. Better to refuse the whole thing than to leave half the spread in the ledger.

In roll reconciliation, the "Planned" column shows the plies and metres the plan took from that roll, and the plies start pre-filled with the planned value.

Before sewing the bundle in an operation, supervision approves the first piece. Without it, reporting is rejected with "approve the first piece". Green releases; yellow releases and warns on every report; red opens an in-process inspection and blocks until a new green or yellow first piece.

In the roll reconciliation, the Shrinkage column shows how many meters of the difference were the knit shrinking as it relaxed (from the measured batch shrinkage). The Loss next to it is only what was lost at the table, and it decides whether the roll closes or diverges. A roll cut before resting is noted in the order's notes.

The difference between what left the roll and the marker consumption now splits into three: knit shrinkage, fabric defect (the stretch around the inspection defects, up to what the plan expected) and table utilization loss. Only the last one counts against the tolerance: a roll with defects does not show as divergent because of the fabric. Before reconciling, the Defect column shows what the plan expected.

For each roll of the spread, enter the meters that came out, the plies and the end piece left. The marker consumption is plies × marker length (from the last marker imported from the CAD). The difference is the waste; above the cutting tolerance (3% by default) the roll turns red. Marker plus end piece greater than what came out is refused. Ticking "Back to stock", the end piece becomes a new roll with its length and proportional weight.

The list shows only rolls IN STOCK for that item. A roll already issued, or sent to a third party through the External processing screen, doesn't appear — it isn't in-house to be cut. If there's no roll, the path is to weigh it on the Rolls screen first.

Whoever can edit the Cutting order. The seamstress sees the traffic light but cannot change it. An operation that already had reports before the rule keeps going without asking for a first piece; new operations ask for it.

The theoretical consumption is what the technical sheet says the cut size grid uses: for each size, the pieces × the size factor (M is 1; L, for example, 1.08) × the fabric consumption per piece on the style's sheet. It comes out in the fabric's unit — kilo or meter; if the sheet was written in meters and the fabric is bought in kilos, it converts using the meters per kilo on the sheet line. Efficiency is the theoretical ÷ what left stock × 100: above 100% the lay used less than planned. Without the fabric on the sheet, or with a size without a factor, the theoretical value stays blank — better than a wrong number.