Biblioteca de operações
As operações de costura da casa com o tempo padrão por tipo de máquina: monta o roteiro e cota o custo da peça antes da piloto.
What you find on this screen
A portrait of the screen, read from the screen itself — it changes when the screen changes.
Form fields
Operação*Como a costura chama a operação: "fechar ombro", "pregar gola".
Tipo de máquina*A máquina em que a operação é feita — o tempo padrão vale para ela.
Tempo padrão (min)*Minutos para fazer a operação em UMA peça, no ritmo normal (com as tolerâncias).
Parte da peçaOnde a operação acontece: gola, manga, corpo, barra ou acabamento.
Como fazerO método da operação: guia, aparelho, ponto por centímetro.
AtivaOperação inativa não aparece na cotação da ficha.
Tipo de pontoO ponto da costura (ISO 4915): 301 reta, 401 corrente, 504 e 514 overloque, 516 interloque, 406 galoneira, 605 cobertura.
Comprimento da costura (cm)Quantos centímetros a operação costura em uma peça.
Linha estimada (m por peça)Estimada ao salvar: comprimento × o fator do ponto (ISO 4915) × 15 % de desperdício — a régua de referência dos fabricantes de linha, não a medição d…
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What the Operations library is for
It keeps the house sewing operations — join shoulder, attach collar, hem the bottom — with the machine type and the standard time in minutes per garment. The spec sheet uses it to cost the garment before the pilot exists: the chosen operations build the routing and the cost comes from the company cost per minute.
Rules
A well-measured standard time
The time is for ONE garment, at normal pace, already including allowances. More than 120 minutes in one operation is refused (it is almost always seconds typed as minutes). An inactive operation disappears from costing but stays in the history. After production, time study measures the actual and the sheet routing can be adjusted.
Sewing thread per operation
In the operation, choose the Stitch type (301 lockstitch, 401 chainstitch, 504 and 514 overlock, 516 safety stitch, 406 coverstitch, 605 cover seam) and type the Seam length in centimeters for one piece. On save, Thread (m per piece) is calculated: length × the stitch factor (how many meters of thread each meter of seam uses) × 15% waste for ends and cone changes. It is the same rule thread makers use to quote the purchase.
The operation's thread is an estimate
Estimated thread (m per piece) comes from the thread makers' reference rule: seam length × the stitch factor (ISO 4915) × 15% waste. It is not measured on your seams: tension, stitch density and fabric change the real use. Use the number to quote the thread purchase and check it against the first lot's consumption.
Frequently asked questions
Why was the operation time refused?
More than 120 minutes in one operation is refused: it is almost always seconds typed as minutes. The time is for one piece, in minutes, already with allowances (36 seconds = 0.6 minute).
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