Plano de corte

Choose the order (or production order), the style and the fabric and tap Propose plan. Tenka uses the markers from the CAD, with the pieces of each size per ply, and the free rolls of the fabric, and proposes the lays: how many plies of each marker, in which shade band and with which rolls. Check the calculation and approve.

Example: "Navy: marker BV-2210_R1 (S2 M2 L1, 6.20 m) × 35 plies in band 575 = 218.75 m". Each lay states the marker, plies, band, metres and rolls; at the end, what the plan produces versus what the order asks for, and the surplus.

A marker the CAD sent with an unknown code stays on this tab. Choose the style (and the fabric) and tap Assign: the consumption goes to the tech pack. To avoid repeats, add the code to the connector's mapping.

The shrinkage measured in the incoming roll inspection goes into the plan: in a batch that shrinks 3%, a 100 m roll gives 97 m of rested knit for the marker, and the planned meters go up 3%. The Batch shrinkage figure shows how many meters came from it. A roll without a measurement uses the batch average.

In Settings, Parameters, Production group: maximum and minimum lay height, end loss per ply, maximum accepted surplus, the weight of a surplus piece and whether the lay requires the same shade band. The last one is on by default: the cutting order rejects mixed bands.

Not enough fabric, or a size no marker has? The proposal saves nothing and says what is missing, for example "120.00 m of Navy, band 555 missing". Blocked rolls are left out; rolls of an already approved plan are reserved for it.

Cutting a lay does, together, the roll withdrawal, the cutting order with the pieces by size and colour in stock, the mark on the lay and the plan closing when it is the last. If any step fails, nothing is saved and the screen tells the reason; the rolls stay in stock. A plan without cuts goes to the bin with Undo; with a cut lay, it does not.

If the knit needs rest (the hours are in the article, in Knitting › Textile article), the Rest column of each lay says whether the rolls have been unrolled and how long is left. When you unroll the rolls on the table, tap Unroll rolls: the rest starts counting from that time. Cutting too early: the cutting order warns and records it, or blocks the cut if the company turned on "Cutting: refuse a roll that has not rested" in Parameters (Production group).

When you propose the plan, Tenka reads the defects marked in each roll inspection (Defects tab of the inspection, with the position in meters). The stretch around each defect stays out of the lay: the margin is the parameter "Cutting: meters discarded on each side of the defect" (default 0.30 m). Plies come from the usable length, the Warnings box says which roll has defects and where, and the Meters column of the lay shows how many defects and how many meters. Inspected the roll after proposing? Propose again: the previous plan goes to the recycle bin.

The cut keeps the plan, the lay, the plies, the shade band and the identity of the marker file imported from the CAD. This proof becomes part of the garment passport's chain.